The Wall

While I was still in Chengdu, Google pulled out of mainland China, moving its operations to Hong Kong – still part of China, but with a whole different set of laws. I think Google is doing the right thing, but I don’t know how much it will affect anything in China. One thing to note – the censorship of Google has always been only in Chinese. When I use Google in China I use the English version, which, as far as I can tell, gets its search results from the USA Google. So, even while in China, I can get search results on all sorts of forbidden topics – Tibet, Tiananmen Square, Chinese human rights abuses, etc. The results show up fine, but if you click on a link the resulting page is usually blocked by China’s “Great Firewall”. So whether or not Google shows uncensored results, the Chinese government still blocks most political sites and all social networking sites (Google Groups, Facebook, Myspace, YouTube, etc.) Google’s cached websites are also blocked – so you can’t sneak around it that way either. Still, the more free information there is the better – it makes China’s attempts to censor that much harder – so I think Google’s move is a good one.

I left Chengdu, saying goodbye to my favorite guesthouse (Sim’s Cozy) and the great staff, especially Chen and Leo, and headed north to Pingyao. Pingyao is a well known tourist city that has been preserved in the old style. The old quarter is surrounded by renovated “ancient” wall and the main streets are full of tourist shops selling trinkets, postcards, and even Che Guevara T-shirts.

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But if you turn off the main streets and walk down any of the small alley-like streets you immediately find yourself in the real Pingyao – a city of people who work and live in the old-style buildings.

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PingYaoMaskGirl

PingYaoChairman

PingYaoFam

PingYaoBikeRepair

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PingYaoItalia

PingYaoSweaterLady

PingYaoBikeMan

Outside Pingyao’s wall, though, things look a little different.

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After two days in Pingyao I took the train to Beijing which dumped me at the Western Train Station. I knew if I could get to the subway I could get to my guesthouse, but I had no idea how to get to the subway. I found an information booth and they told me what bus to catch, but I couldn’t find that bus – someone else told me to catch another bus. It didn’t help that I didn’t know the word for “subway” and kept saying “train” and pointing at the ground which only confused people because we were at a train station. Finally I got on the correct bus and found a young woman who spoke a little English and told me what stop to get off at.

Beijing is a large sprawling city of enormous wide streets, big open squares and pedestrian underpasses.  I had a few errands to do in Beijing (buy some camera things, a jacket, some other necessities) and I found it took me days to get things done.  No matter where I needed to go it always seemed to take at least an hour and often taxi drivers or other locals wouldn’t even know the place or store I was looking for.  The subway system is excellent though – you can go anywhere in the system for 2 yuan (about 30 cents).  The system is still being built and is expanding so fast that many tourist maps are missing entire lines.

I lost some of my photos of Beijing, I had a computer problem and lost some data.  Most of the photos that I lost were very touristy, so just Google “Forbidden City” or “pictures of Mao” and you’ll see the same things I saw.  Here’s some other photos, mostly from the smaller streets, or Hutongs.

BeijingRedLanterns

BeijingEnamal

BeijingHaircut

BeijingDiner

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BeijingBar

BeijingSleepy

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BeijingTailor

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And here’s a few pictures from in and around Tiananmen square.  I found myself most fascinated by the stone faced soldiers.

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BeijingArmyLegs

BeijingArmyFaces

BeijingJacky

BeijingFlag

BeijingTianemenJanitor

BeijingTianemenSoldier

I also spent a day at Beijing’s art district, called 798.  The photo on the front-page is from an collaboration between a European installation artist and a Chinese architect.  It was basically a huge room full of fog and hidden lights that gave the impression of being in an infinite space.  It was pretty nifty.

No trip to Beijing would be complete without a visit to The Great Wall.  I decided to hike along a less traveled portion of the wall and my trip turned into a bit of a fiasco – I managed to get lost.  I know, you’d think it would be hard to get lost when there’s a big wall to follow, but it wasn’t as simple as I thought.  There’s a video below documenting my little trip to The Wall.  The video may be a little indulgent on my part, I do talk too much in it, but hey, I just bought a video camera and wanted to use it.  My apologies to Pink Floyd and to any of my readers who listened to the awful cover of “Comfortably Numb” on the front-page.  Perhaps it’s hackneyed, but I couldn’t resist the Floyd/Wall connection.  Lastly, for all my filmmaking/editing comrades out there, I would like to note I had only one battery for my camera while at The Great Wall and had to be rather stingy with shooting and let us please remember that I edited the damn thing on an underpowered netbook with a screen only 400 pixels high.

You can see or download the video at the link below:

Ben Gold – The Wall

Sorry to all the peeps in China.  Blip.tv, along with every other video site, is blocked in China.  Proxy anyone?

After my sojourn to The Wall I finally left China.  Wow, I feel like I was there forever and I’m not sure where all the time went.  I hopped on the Trans-Siberian railway – well, technically, the Trans-Mongolian Railway – and now I’m in Ulaanbaatar (aka Ulan Bator), Mongolia.

I’m here to see a man about a horse.

Plan D

Plan A

Johnson, the somewhat unfortunately named teacher coordinator at LeShan University, told me my work permit wouldn’t be ready before Chinese New Year. Chinese New Year, or “Spring Festival”, is a week long holiday in China so that meant I wouldn’t get the permit until late February, just a week before the semester started – and I would have to go to Hong Kong to get the work visa.

Okay, I said, I’m going to go travel, visit some friends, you can mail the permit to me in Hong Kong after the holidays and I’ll get the visa and come back just before school starts. Okay, Johnson said. Plan A.

XianMosque

Xi'an back street.

I headed to Xi’an, home of the Terracotta Warriors.

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In 221 BC, Emperor Qin Shi Huang unified China, ending the Warring States period. He began construction of The Great Wall and also had a huge tomb built for his eventual demise. When he did die, in 209 BC, he was buried with tens of thousands of clay statues of warriors, animals, and various treasures. 700,000 laborers worked on the project, excavating earth and, most amazingly, creating the statues. Although the warriors were made from molds, each face was finished by hand – so no two are exactly alike.

TCottaWarriors

The warriors were discovered accidentally by farmers in 1972, but most of the terracotta treasures have yet to be unearthed. The actual mausoleum of Qin Shi Huang is still buried – it is unstable and filled with high concentrations of mercury (from the ancient treasure it is believed) so the archaeologists are taking their time.

TCottaTrio

I went to Shanghai. My friends Deirdre and Amadeo were there – Deirdre was working on a film being shot in Shanghai — and I met their lovely daughter Alva, who was born while I’ve been away.

DAbabywalk DAalvamom DAdadalva

The film company had provided them with a nice luxury apartment on the 17th floor with a great view of an older neighborhood across the street.

SHaptView

Actually, it wasn’t the 17th floor, it was the 15th floor, even though it was called the 17th floor. You know how we westerners, because of Christianity, sometimes omit the 13th floor on buildings? In China the number 4 is bad luck – it’s associated with death – so many buildings omit all the “4” floors. So, 5 is 4 and 17 is 15.

On the eve the first day of Chinese New Year, fireworks went off constantly in Shanghai. Firecrackers and mortar like bombs during the day, roman candles and rockets as the evening progressed. I watched the fireworks from the balcony of the apartment. There is no official fireworks show, but the residents of Shanghai had enough of their own to blow us into next year. These aren’t just your dollar bottle rockets, either – they owned some seriously big fireworks.

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Then, at midnight, all hell broke loose. I’ve never seen so many fireworks. For almost 40 minutes there was a constant stream of rockets and roman candles, firecrackers and larger explosions – non-stop.

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I couldn’t possibly capture the intensity of so many fireworks going off. To get an idea, take a listen to this mp3.  40 minutes of that, followed by about an hour more of slowly decreasing activity.

I spent the week long holiday in Shanghai. Deirdre was working, so mostly I hung out with Amadeo and Alva and did some sightseeing on my own.  Although the city was bustling and crowded I often found the odd empty spaces more interesting.

SHmandog SHthreemen SHmanshades
SHtrafflight SHboxesbike SH
SHbed SHgallery2 SHchair

After the holiday was over I headed to Hong Kong to get my visa. It was six days until the semester started.

You have to leave China to get a new visa. Hong Kong is “China”, but not China, it works under different immigration rules – so I had to go there to get the work visa. But, I needed a work permit to get the visa. The permit had to come from Sichuan.

This is Plan A, remember?

HKfruitstand HKunderwear HKfishmarket

I email Johnson and he says the permit isn’t ready. 3 days go by. It’s the end of February – school is starting after the weekend. I email Johnson, what do to? Wait for the permit, you can start late, he writes back.

I wait through the weekend and email him on Monday. No permit, please wait.

I wait. I’m burnt out and lost. I download movies and watch them. I eat soup dumplings, delicious dumplings full of meat and broth.

HKtigerdance HKtigerdance2 HKtigerdance3

I have a toothache. I go to a dentist.  He pulls out a wisdom tooth.

The week passes, Johnson says wait.

Hong Kong isn’t cheap – it’s practically New York.

I eat dumplings, I download movies, I read Leo Tolstoy short stories and Dostoevsky’s The Idiot.

My tooth aches less, but still hurts. Dentist does a root canal. Jesus. My jaw is sore for three days.

I’m in a funk. I barely go out and do anything. I want to leave. I want to be teaching, or traveling. I want – fuck, I don’t know what I want.  I want someone to tell me what to do.

I email Johnson, school has been in session for a week and a half already. Please wait, he says.

When? I write. When? I plead. Tell me when it will be ready.

We don’t know, he writes back. The government tells us nothing.

Almost three weeks in Hong Kong, two weeks into the semester. At this rate I’ll be starting a month or more late.

I finish The Idiot and buy The USA Trilogy by Dos Passos just because it is big and long and will take me awhile.

I can’t stand it anymore. It’s cost me almost 2 months of what I would earn in China to sit around in Hong Kong. I write to Johnson.

I give up, I write, I can’t wait around any longer.  I go to the Ministry and apply for another tourist visa. 150 bucks. It’s Friday.

Monday I get the tourist visa, Tuesday I head back to China. I got to Yangshuo to look at the classic mountains.

Yangshuo4

The mountains are nice, the town is a tourist-trap hell. I’m well into The USA Trilogy. Too much spare time.

We can get it in a week or two, you just will have to go back to Hong Kong, Johnson writes. I’m sorry, I gave up, I write.

In Yangshuo I meet 2 different people who have just landed teaching jobs. I don’t care, I don’t want to know. Plan A is done.

Plan B & C

I’d left a few things in Chengdu, thinking I would be headed back to teach. But, still I had to get them. I realize now that if I’m not going to teach I need to get to Europe by the end of the year to find a boat to cross the Atlantic. I hope to be back in The States by early 2011. If I miss the sailing season I could be stuck for another year. I don’t want that. It’s time to start going home.

Plan B – go to Chengdu, head to Western Sichuan and into Qinghai province, exploring the Tibetan areas of China. Not Tibet proper, but the people are Tibetan culturally and it is supposed to be beautiful. Then head west into Xinjiang and into Central Asia, through to Turkey along the old Silk Road and into Europe.

I buy a train ticket to Chengdu and email Chen, a friend who works at the guest-house in Chengdu. Just before I leave I get an email back from him. Western Sichuan is closed to foreigners, he writes. All the Tibetan areas are closed. Xinjiang – the western province I have to travel through to get to Central Asia – is also closed. Shit.

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Train Station Smoking Area

I get on the train and show up 25 hours later in Chengdu. I’m three quarters done with Passos.

Everyone at the guest-house is talking about the problems, people have been turned back at checkpoints in Western Sichuan, people have seen military, people have seen fighter planes or bombers or something. Someone was told to leave Xining, in Qinghai.  One guy tried to buy a train ticket to western China and has been told all the tickets are “sold out.” Shit.

Plan C — Go to Mongolia. I really want to see Central Asia though. Maybe cross into Russia, down into Kazakhstan, and into Central Asia? Sounds like a lot of work – Russia and Kazakhstan aren’t known for their easy or friendly visa service. I find out about a guy who will set you up with a horse in Mongolia. I would love to ride a horse across the steppes. Too early, he writes, no grass for horses to eat. Damn.

What to do? Where to go? How to get the hell out of China and on my way west?

Plan D

Plan D. Try to see if there is any way to get to western China – to just get to Kyrgyzstan as quickly as possible. Maybe from Beijing? I don’t know. I’m skeptical that Xinjiang is totally closed, but of course the entire province has been without internet for more than half a year – the Chinese shut it off when the Uighurs rioted. Yes, they shut off the internet like the water company shuts off your plumbing.

Go to Mongolia anyway – scratch the horse? Russia and Kazakhstan? What about Central Aisa?

But maybe all that waiting around was enough for me, I’m ready to start moving again.

Where to? I don’t know. I’ll tell you when I do.

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